File Shaping Techniques
Everyone needs to develop a filing system that works for them. A good system will save time and keep you more focused by making you more productive. Many of us waste time trying to file and shape nails and don’t have a check and balance in their system. Describing the system I use can help you develop yours.
Obviously a full set will take you longer to file than a fill so plan on 90 minutes to complete the full set, 20-30 minutes dedicated to shaping and finishing. The fill should take you less than 15 minutes to shape and finish because most of your filing is done during the prep work before you even apply.
My filing system is simple and consistent. I do all five actions on each nail before I move on to the next nail. Then if I am not using a gel sealant I re-file the same exact way with a lesser grit, then the buffer. I use a hand file to shape the tips sides then I use a barrel bit for the surface and the VP safety bit for the cuticle area. I file only once and take a little extra time and no longer buff the nails. I cleanse them and use a gel sealant.
With a hand file:
2. File the sides (perimeter)
3. File the undersides (this is the underside of the tip extensions) With a fine or medium barrel
4. File the top With a VP Safety Bit
5. File the cuticle AFTER THE PRODUCT IS APPLIED
We have developed a 5” x 1” hand file that is a180 grit with a buffer. I prefer these files because I feel you can get a cleaner, straight and sharper line from a file that does not bend. Another benefit of a large board because you can get more surface contact for less filing time and the cushioned buffer side hugs the nail when buffing. I also build all my nails square even if I intend to make them round. I get straighter edges in my final shape this way no matter what the end result shape may be. And don’t forget to always side your files by taking the sharp edges off with an old file so that you don’t cut your client.
STEP 1 - Parameter
Just like in a haircut you must file a guideline. Take your 180 grit and file the tips of the nails all straight and flat. Hold your file straight to the tip, not at an angle otherwise you will have an inverted edge. Holding it at an angle will undercut the corners and make the tip more round even though you’re filing flat to the tip’s edge.
STEP 2 - Measure the nails
Nail to nail, cuticle to tip. The thumbs and pinkies should be in proportion and the index, middle and ring nails should be the same length. View the nails from the top - do not turn them so the hand is pointing up and do not turn them around and measure the size of the free edge that you can see over the tip of the finger - this will sure make your length inconsistent because not all nails are on the fingertips at the same exact place.
Measure at this step and you won't need to worry about it later.
STEP 3 - File the sides
Viewing the nails from the top with the file straight up and down - holding the file straight - not at an angle - file the side shapes of all ten nails.
STEP 4 - File the undersides.
Turn the nail so you are viewing the underside of the edge of the nail in a nail profile position - where it leaves the groove wall and becomes the free edge extension.
With the file tucked into the groove wall and with the file touching the whole edge of the underside of the nail where is may have an overhang; file the underside edge of the extension. File both sides of the nail so now you should have all clean edges. If there is an overhang file the overhand from the bottom up never touching the nail groove area and makeit meet where the nail comes out of the grove.
NO FLIPPING THE FILE!
Most techs try to achieve the last two steps in one stroke and wind up flipping the file around as they file. Do not try to file the sides and undersides in the same motion. Separate the motion. This duel motion does not make a straight sidewall edge and ruins the corners. So if you flip the file at the end of your filing motion try using my two steps for filing the sides. Using a file that bends too much by applying too much pressure trying to get a straight edge will also be difficult to achieve a straight line.
STEP 5 - Making round nails
At this point if you want to round the nails take your file and press it flat - up to the tips' edge, then angle the file’s edge that is furthest from you slips slightly underneath the edges allowing you to remove the underneath corners of the tip.
Then after taking the corners off shaping the nail round will be easier and more consistent. Use a back and forth motion on the tip’s edge to continue to round them.
STEP 6 - Shaping the top surface
Now with your 180 grit file or a medium or fine carbide barrel bit go over the surface of all ten nails. I stay away from the cuticle and focus on lower ¾ of the nail down to the tip.
Using the electric file – use a medium or fine barrel bit and shape the surface by angling the bit down at the tip and flat in the center and angled to wards the cuticle without going near it. Start on the right side and move the bit across the nail to the left side. Pick the bit up off the nail and bring it back to the right side and repeat the step. If your seasoned you can go back and forth being careful not to apply too much pressure of course so the does not get hot.
STEP 7 – Hand filing the cuticle area is always the one technique we worry the most about. Use a gentle motion around the cuticle area and angle your file. View the nail from the side (profile) so you can see where you are making contact to bevel the products at the cuticle area.
Using an electric file - tapered barrel
The tapered bit is a medium or fine carbide cone with the tip cut off so it is small and has a rounded tip so it fits right into the cuticle area. Use on a low speed and use very little pressure. Work the tip right into the grove of the cuticle – the rounded tip is safe as long as you do not use too much pressure. Rock the finger to meet the bit as you go around the cuticle area. Remember to make contact with the top half of the bit so you are beveling the entire cuticle area down as you work.
View the nails from a profile so if there is a "humpage" at the cuticle you can remove by filing with the bit flat to the nail and using the angle.
You need to bevel the product so you have a nice graduation of product down to the natural nail.
ALTERNATIVE STEP: At this stage cleanse the nails or dust them well (do not wash) and apply GelShine to all ten nails and cure for 1-2 minutes.
STEP 8 - Refile
Now repeat all the same steps a 240 file to refine what you have already done. This makes for a consistent shape and you refine what you missed with the previous file.
You can also use the 180 file for both steps - eliminating some time and achieving the same results with the second filing will refine even further because there will be less grit.
One thing you need to do in between grit changes is to remove the dust left behind by the coarser file before you move on to a finer file. This way you’re not scratching in left over grit from a coarser file with a smoother one.
STEP 9 - Buffing
Again, dust the nails and use the buffer side of the file making sure you go over the entire surface smoothing the nails completely. Go underneath and smooth the edges too - without re-shaping the edges. Use a good amount of pressure when doing this.
STEP 10 - The buffer again with cuticle oil
Dust the nails again and apply cuticle oil and rub into the cuticles. Most oils you would use for buffing will be mineral oil based cuticle oil, perfect for buffing. Repeat the buffing steps to graduate the surface smoothness even more. Know will ruin the buffer with oil but you will like the results.
STEP 11 – HIGH SHINE BUFFERS
Wipe the nails clean with a dry cloth or towel; you want to remove the excess oil without removing it completely. Do not cleanse with a nail cleanser yet and if need be have the client wash her nails and dry them thoroughly before buffing. Too much cuticle oil will ruin the buffers; a small amount will enhance the buffing.
3 Way buffers - Start with the black side first and then remove the dust then the white side then the gray side. Place your finger tip on the end of the file and go back and forth on each nail before using the whole file. This added pressure will help.
Chamois Buffers - I prefer to use two separate chamois buffers, one with buffing cream and one without in that order. Start by applying a small amount of buffing cream onto the nails and rub in without rubbing it off. If you use an electric file the spin of the buffer will throw the buffing cream off the nail if it is not rubbed in. With slight pressure begin to rub the buffing cream into the nail with your hand buffer or electric file. Because chamois is a natural material it can heat up fast so be very careful. Once you have achieved a good high shine rebuff again with a clean chamois with a lighter pressure to bring the shine up even higher.
Shiny Buffers – These are the latest in buffer technology. Usually they come with a white side and a color on the other side, depending on the file manufacturer. No one knows but I believe there is slight pumice in the white side which gives you a tremendous shine with little effort. Start with the white side first. These buffers come in file and block shapes. If you graduate your grits properly, use files that give you good results, use them for good coverage over the entire nail when filing you should be able to high shine a nail without a three-way buffer, using a shiny buffer or chamois only.
If you do not achieve a good high shine go back and re-file starting with the second file you used because the scratches you were unable to get out are the original file’s scratches.